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Showing posts with label template. Show all posts
Showing posts with label template. Show all posts

bringing home baby - she'll probably need something to wear

Unbelievably, the week has already arrived when we get to welcome our new baby - we'll meet her on Friday!  Some of my friends started asking about her "coming home" outfit, and I realized I didn't have anything planned.  Come to think of it, I have never planned a special coming home from the hospital outfit for my own kids.  I'm not super sentimental about that kind of stuff.  But this baby needed something, poor third child that she is.


First, I made her a really simple knot-top cap.  It is modeled after my favorite store-bought newborn cap that I bought for Oscar years ago.  I sketched out a simple template for you, which you can print out HERE.  You'll need to cut two pieces of stretchy knit fabric from the template, and then another rectangular piece for the border at the bottom.  I cut my border piece to 3 inches tall, and double the width of the bottom of the template piece.  I'm not going to go into detail how to piece it together, but Make It and Love It has a really great baby hat tutorial that should give you a pretty good idea.  Keep in mind that her hat brim folds up, but mine does not.

I also have basic instructions for a really easy baby hat from a t-shirt sleeve from my early sewing days - you can find it HERE.


Besides long sleepers, my favorite newborn clothes are the basic kimono-style snap shirts you can buy in packs.  I even did a tutorial a few years ago about how to dress one up with ric-rac and some pretty buttons (find it HERE). For this shirt, I simply added a lace trim around the shirt's opening - really easy, really fast.  This is actually the exact shirt that Oscar wore home from the hospital, and possibly Ruby, too (I don't actually remember what I put her in).


So there you have it, possibly the easiest coming home from the hospital outfit, ever.  Add a pair of leggings and some cute socks, and you're all set.

birthday shirt, a new template, and updates


Last night I played, "how complicated can I make a simple project?"  Using Dana's 90-minute shirt tutorial, I sewed a birthday shirt for Oscar's friend (happy birthday, Audrey!).  Then I appliqued the cupcake, hand-sewed the crocheted lace trim, and used my Silhouette cutter to add the text.  Yowza.  I think it's cute.

Here's a copy of the cupcake template I sketched out (right click to save the image to your computer.  re-size and print as needed):

Advent Sew-Along
I'm so excited that many of you want to join me for this project!  Here are the frequently asked questions so far:
1)  What kind of felt am I using?  I love Rainbow Classic felt, which is made of 100% eco-fi (polyester made from recycled post-consumer plastic bottles).  It is a good thickness, comes in gorgeous colors, and very economical - hence, my favorite non-wool felt. You can buy it in yardage at fabric.com, among other places.

I wish I had a big enough craft budget to use wool felt, but that is not reality for me.  If you are willing to spend some extra money and truly make an heirloom piece, I would definitely recommend using wool or wool-blend felt.

2)  When will I be posting about the advent calendar?  Look for updates and assignments every Wednesday!

Ruby Blessing Dress
My apologies for the wait on the Ruby Blessing Dress pattern and tutorial.  Tutorials take a long time to put together, and unfortunately birthdays, holidays, and real life just keep getting in the way.  It will be posted as soon as possible!

Have a lovely weekend!

Lickety-Split Birthday Crown


 
Need a last-minute birthday crown?  The one Oscar is wearing took 5 steps and  less than 30 minutes to make.

Supplies:
  • two paper-sized sheets of felt
  • approximately 8 inches of elastic (depending on the size of your child's head)
  • the usual sewing supplies.
Instructions:
  1. Using the template below, cut two crown pieces, one circle, and the number of your choice.
  2. Sew the birthday number to the circle piece.  I cut out my circle with pinking shears for a little extra interest.
  3. Sew your now-numbered circle to the center wave of the crown.  Add any other embellishments you'd like - ric rac, ribbon, trim, etc.
  4. Lay your two crown pieces together, right sides out.  Sandwich one end of the elastic between the crown pieces and sew in place.  Repeat on the other side.  Make sure your elastic is not twisted.
  5. Sew around the entire outer edge, and you're done!  Time to party.

 




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felt playhouse Q&A (and a mailbox template)

I am overwhelmed by the response I'm getting from the playhouse.  Thank you so much!  I am really pleased with how it turned out, and it is always fun when other people love it, too.  So thanks again!

Here's one last template. Everything else on the playhouse is either a really basic shape that should be easy for you to cut on your own, or is just too big to do a template for.

I've been getting tons of the same questions in the comments.  Rather than make you read through them all, I thought I'd round them all up in a post.

1.  Did you think of this idea yourself?  No way!  I'm not quite that clever.  The first fabric playhouse I ever saw was on Nothing Fancy, who made the sweetest little playhouse out of a duvet cover and twin sheet set.  Then I saw an awesome playhouse at This and That, which won me over big time because it is full of cuteness on the inside too (I so did not take the time to line mine and decorate the inside ... but I do have some future plans).  This and That's SIL, Sew Much Ado, also made a fun all-boy playhouse (with a tutorial!) and linked over to Imaginative Play Toys on Etsy.  That's when I knew, I wanted to make an all-felt house.  So, no - the felt playhouse itself was not my idea, but I think all of the decorations and embellishments are pretty unique.  I tried to make it one of a kind.

2.  How do you hang it/make it stand up?  The playhouse is essentially a slipcover made to fit my kitchen table.  Kind of like a tablecloth with sides?  The top is a big rectangle of felt.  I sewed the side pieces to the top piece, and then I sewed the side edges together.  Presto-chango-playhouse!

3.  What are the playhouse's dimensions?  It is 48 inches wide, 30 inches tall and 36 inches deep.  When I was cutting my side pieces I added an inch to all of the dimensions for seam allowance.  However, this is made to fit my kitchen table.  So whether you are making a playhouse to fit your own kitchen table, a folding card table, or a stand you make yourself, please use your own measurements!

4.  Where did you buy your felt?  How much felt do you need to make it?  How much did it cost? What exactly did you order (colors and amounts)?  I bought my felt by the yard at Fabric.com.    Here is my exact order:  3.5 yards Rainbow Felt Peacock, 1.5 yards Rainbow Felt White, 1 yard Rainbow Felt Orange, .5 yard Rainbow Felt Walnut Brown, .5 yard Rainbow Felt Yellow, .5 yard Rainbow Felt Cashmere Tan.  I have a mountain of leftover felt, so you really don't need this much.  But I don't mind, because I LOVE having lots of felt on hand.  I know I reference Fabric.com a lot around here, but I've just had a great experience with them.  They have free shipping for orders over $35, and there is usually a coupon code floating around the internet.   In my felt order the accidentally forgot to include the white felt, so they over-nighted the missing fabric.  Now that's what I call service!  (and no, I am not affilliated with fabric.com in any way).  My order, taking advantage of a coupon code and free shipping, only cost $26.

5.  Why did you use felt, as opposed to cotton or another fabric?  I wanted my entire playhouse to be made out of the same material.  And I didn't want to spend forever finishing seams or appliqueing on details.  Felt was a good choice for me because I didn't have to finish any seams (yay!) and I could just sew (not applique) all the decorations directly to the playhouse walls.   Felt is not the best choice if you expect to wash your playhouse frequently. 

6.  Do you sell these?  A big no to this one.  I'm not going to lie ... this project was a ton of work.  Unless someone I love very much asks me to make one for them, I don't see this being a repeat project for me.  Good news is, you can get a beautiful custom playhouse at Imaginative Play Toys (an etsy shop).  She makes over two dozen different designs!

7.  Was it hard to sew together (since it is so large)?  It really wasn't very hard to sew together, despite all that fabric.  As long as you add all of your embellishments before sewing the sides together, you should be fine.  I added mesh to the window panes after it was all put together, and that was a serious pain in the neck.  Embellish first, assemble second!

Great ideas that came through the comments:

From Prairie Girl - "Wouldn't it be cute to make velcro Christmas lights to "hang" around the roof or on the tree. Or how about a snowman to "build" on the side of the house."  Yes, velcro Christmas lights are about the cutest thing I've ever heard of.

Someone else suggested (and I can't remember who - I couldn't find the comment.  sorry!) that I could build a frame for the house using PVC pipe.  Great idea!  This is definitely something to consider when we get a different kitchen table.

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flower, fruit and vegetable templates

Happy Friday!  To use the following templates from my felt playhouse, right click on the images to save and print as a full 8.5x11 sheet of paper.  enjoy  :)

 
Flower instructions:
  • Cut two of each flower.
  • Cut one center for each (except tulip).
  • Embellish the front of the flower with a felt center, button, etc.  Set aside.
  • Sew a tube of green felt for the stem.  Insert a pipe cleaner for added stability.  I folded my pipe cleaners in half and twisted the ends together to keep them from ripping through.
  • Sandwich 1/2 inch of stem between the two pieces of flower.
  • Sew around the outside edge, leaving an opening for stuffing.
  • Stuff flower with polyfill.
  • Sew the opening closed.


 

Can I get away with not posting full instructions for all of the produce?  In brief - for each item, cut two.  Attach a square of velcro to the back piece if you want it to stick to the playhouse.  With both pieces together, sew around the outer edge, leaving an opening for stuffing.  Stuff with polyfill.  Sew the opening closed.  For apple and carrot, insert stem (use a 3 inch piece of ribbon or trim (folded in half) for the apple) before sewing the opening closed.  Easy, peasy!

For the corn, cut strips of white and yellow felt and weave into a rectangle, slightly larger than the template.  Cut two additional yellow corn pieces using the template.  Sew one solid yellow piece to the woven rectangle, going around the outer edge.  Trim off excess woven pieces.  Layer your woven corn piece with the other yellow corn piece and sew around the outside, leaving an opening for stuffing.  Stuff with polyfill and sew opening closed.
 
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simple felt trick-or-treat bags: templates and tutorial


As promised, here are the templates and instructions for making my simple felt trick-or-treat bags.  They really are easy, and unless you have to crank out 25 (like me), you should have plenty of time to make them before Halloween.  Hooray!

First I'll show you how to construct the basic bag. 

Main bag piece: 11 x 20 inches felt
Handle pieces:  (2) 12 x 1 inches felt or ribbon
To make the felt handles extra sturdy, cut two pieces of felt 12 x 1 inches and sew them together.  A simple seam down either side will do.  To clarify, cut four total 12 x 1 felt pieces for each bag, and sew two sets together, creating two 12 inch handles.

1.  With your main bag piece laying flat, pin your handles to the inside of the fabric (on the 11-inch side), approximately 2 inches in from the side, and overlapping the edge approximately 1 inch (as pictured below).


 2.  Sew the handle to the bag.  Repeat with the other handle.


3.  Decorate the front of the bag.  Templates and more details on each bag can be found further down this post.


4.  Fold the main bag piece, right sides together, lining up the side and top edges.  Sew a 3/8 inch side seam (about the width of your presser foot) on each side.


5.  Square off the bottom of the bag:  Match the side seam to the bottom fold of the bag, creating a triangle. With the open seam at the middle to lay flat, mark a line at the 2 1/2 inch wide point.  Sew a seam across the marked line and trim off the triangle, leaving about a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Repeat with other side.


It will look like this:

 6.  Turn the bag right-side out and revel in the cuteness.


Now that we have the bag basics down, let's talk about the different variations:

The pumpkin is pretty straight-forward.  Follow the instructions above, using the jack-o-lantern face template provided.  I added a strip of green ric-rac across the top of the front of the bag (you'll need 11 inches), and then sewed a leaf on top.  The leaf was top-stitched for added detail.

For the frankenstein bag, I used buttons for the eyes, and ric rac for the eyebrow (about 4 inches long).  You could substitute felt for both details.  For the neck bolt, cut out the 3 x 1 inch felt strip and fold it in half before sewing to the bag.   I placed the neck bolts 6 1/2 inches down from the top of the bag.  Make sure you pin them facing inward (the cut edge will line up with the bag's edge), so when you turn the bag right side out, the bolts will stick out.


The bat bag has a slightly different shape because I tapered the main bag piece 1 inch on either side (starting from midway up the side of the folded main piece) to give it a rounder appearance.  Otherwise, construction is the same.  Ric rac was added to the handles for a little extra color, and the mouth was stitched on with contrast colored thread.  Buttons for the eyes.  The wings are a single layer of felt, but you could make it a double layer for added stability (they are a little floppy).  Use the template piece from the jack-o-lantern nose for the bat's ears.

Click on the images below to download the pdf templates:




Happy trick-or-treating.  :)

vinyl wipes case template

You asked for it, so here it is ... a template to make your own vinyl-decorated wipes case.



Supplies needed:
  • Hard plastic travel wipes case (my template is made to fit the Huggies brand cases)
  • Cut vinyl, contact paper, or scrapbook paper and mod podge - I'm going to show you how I used the vinyl
  • scotch tape
  • scissors
  • wipes case template
First, print and cut out the pdf template (please select the "fit to printable area" option to get the correct sizing).   Get the template HERE.

Prepare your vinyl - I used my Silhouette machine to cut a design (for Silhouette users, this design is called "Butterfly Floral Lace Square").  You could also buy pre-cut vinyl, cut it by hand, or substitute pretty contact paper (there are some great contact paper patterns out there these days).  In my last post, a reader suggested using scrapbook paper and mod podging it to the wipes case.  I've never tried this, but I'm sure it would work!

Lay the template pieces on top of the vinyl, and using small pieces of scotch tape to hold them in place. 

Cut around each template to get one back piece and two front pieces.

Apply the vinyl to the wipes case, according to the material's instructions.  If you are using an intricately cut design, I would strongly recommend using transfer paper.

I used some of the leftover scraps to apply little pieces to the center case flap.

Make sure you firmly adhere the vinyl to the case, smoothing down all corners, and you're done!  Enjoy your one-of-a-kind wipes case.


And one more time ... here's another link for the wipes case template, in case you missed it.  :)

Pin It

p.s.  if you want to buy a vinyl decorated wipes case, check out Starr Designs on etsy.  She makes a variety of decorated and personalized wipes cases, including this butterfly lace design.

ruffle t-shirt tutorial

Sorry for the tutorial delay, eager sewers. Let me start my saying that I doubt this is the best or even the right way to make your own t-shirt. This is simply how it occurred to me to do it. If you are a sewing expert and have lots of wisdom on this subject to share, please comment! Also, I do not have a fancy sewing machine or a serger. So we are talking super basic stuff here. Works for me, so I hope it works for you, too!

Ruffle T-Shirt Tutorial

First, pick your favorite t-shirt out of your closet. You are going to use it as your pattern. Fold the sleeves back inside the shirt and pin them there. You just want the shell of the shirt for your body pattern pieces. Lay it out over your fabric (mine is doubled over so I only have to cut once). You'll want to pay attention to the grain of your fabric and how it stretches - you want it to stretch side-to-side. I used a bamboo/cotton jersey knit fabric.

Cut around your t-shirt, leaving at least a 1/4 inch margin around all sides for seam allowance. Like so:

(p.s. pay attention to how the sleeves look on your store-bought shirt as they are pinned inside. This is how you will pin your fabric together later to attach the sleeves)

You should have two identical pieces. Take one of those pieces and fold it in half horizontally. It should look like this:

Cut your front neckline out of this folded piece. I like to do a scoop neck, but you can cut whatever neckline you want. If you are afraid of cutting too deep, just keep an eye on the bottom of the arm hole, which is approximately even with the middle of your bustline.

Ok, body pieces are ready for sewing. Now you need sleeves. Here is a template I use for my shirts. I have small/medium-ish sized arms. You'll have to adjust the template to fit your arms.
Please note that this template requires you to cut on a fold line - meaning you fold the fabric in half and line up the "fold line" side with the fold of the fabric. After you cut and unfold, you should have something that looks like this:

Cut two. :)

And we are ready to start sewing. Many of you expressed your fear of knits in the other post. They are not so scary. Use a ball-point jersey needle (this is absolutely necessary), and you'll be fine. A zig-zag stitch is helpful as well.

Pin your two body pieces, right sides facing together. Fold your sleeves in half, right sides together, and pin on the short side.


Using a 1/4 inch seam and a zig-zag stitch, sew
  • each side of the shirt (DON'T sew the arm hole)
  • the tops of each shoulder
  • the seam on each sleeve
Finish off the seam using another zig-zag stitch as close to the edge of the fabric as you can manage. Or, if you have a serger, you'll want to use that I'm sure. (p.s. I am jealous of you)

Here's where your seams will be:

Make sure you press all of your seams. It makes a huge difference in the finished product.

Next, hem both sleeves. With the sleeve inside out, fold the edge up 1/4 inch and press. Then fold again (about 1/4 inch, or more, if you want a wider hem) and press. Pin in place and sew in place. I still used a zig-zag stitch, so my sleeve would stretch.

Ok, this next part is the lazy measurer's guide to fit. A normal person would measure the arm hole and then cut the sleeve to fit, right? Not me. Too lazy. Instead, I make it fit by adding a little gather to the top of the sleeve.

First, sew a baste stitch (the longest straight stitch your machine will do) along the top arch of the sleeve. You don't need to sew all the way around, just across the middle will do. Leave long threads on both sides. Don't back-stitch, or it won't work! It will look like this:

Pull only the back thread, and the fabric will begin to gather. You suddenly have more feminine sleeves. :)
Now you'll need to attach the sleeves to your shirt. This was hard to photograph, so I'll do my best to explain.

Turn the body of your shirt inside out, and your sleeves right side out. Stuff the sleeve inside the shirt, lining up the raw edges of both pieces. The bottom seam of the sleeve will line up with the bottom seam of the arm hole. Start pinning where those seams align, and move up the arm hole on either side. The sleeve will be inside the shirt, just like when you were using your favorite t-shirt as a cutting pattern. Remember? ;)

When you get to the top of the arm hole, adjust the gathered top of the sleeve (either loosen or tighten the gather) so it all fits together well and finish pinning.

I sincerely hope that all made sense. Here's what it should look like:

Sew around the arm hole using a 1/4 inch seam and zig-zag stitch. Finish off the seam with another zig-zag along the edge, or using a serger.

Turn your shirt right side out, and what do you know ... it actually looks like a shirt!

This is a good time to actually try the shirt on. Do you like your neckline? If not, you can still trim it to the desired shape.

When you are satisfied, sew a little zig-zag stitch all the way around the edge.

Turn the shirt inside out again. Fold over approximately 1/4 inch around the entire neckline and press. Pin in place. Then sew it in place (I am still using a small zig-zag stitch here).

Now hem the bottom of the shirt the exact same way. You could also do a double fold hem, but this is faster, and I think looks just as good.

Your shirt is officially done, but stick with me if you want to add a ruffle.

Cut a long 1 1/2 inch strip of fabric to make the ruffle. It needs to be approximately 1 1/2 to 2 times longer than the circumference of your shirt's neckline, but I just eyeball it. Better too long than too short, because you can always trim it later.

Sew a zig-zag stitch all the way down each side, as close to the edge as possible. Then sew a basting stitch all the way down the center of the strip, leaving long threads on each end. Remember, no back-stitching on the baste stitch!

Pulling gently on the back thread only, carefully gather the strip of fabric into a ruffle.

Starting from the middle of the neckline on the back of the shirt, pin the ruffle to the neckline, right over where you hemmed it. You can adjust the tightness of the ruffle as you go, making sure it is consistently ruffly.

When you get back to the starting point, cut off any excess ruffle length, leaving just a little bit to fold under. Sew the ruffle in place using a straight stitch, following the baste stitch as a guide.

And that's it! See, sewing on knits is not so bad, right?

Sorry for the less-than-great finished shot (it actually does lay flat in front - oops). Maybe when the shirt reaches its intended recipient she will take a photo of how fabulous she looks in it. :)



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